Today is a special day for me and
my wife. On special days like this we prepare ‘kiribath’ (milk rice). It
is the traditional food that most Sri Lankans make on auspicious days and for special
occasions. This morning we made kiribath to celebrate our 23rd wedding
anniversary. My wife cooked kiribath and I shaped it to make imbul
kiribath emulating my maternal grandmother.
Almost every female member of my
family had a specialty dish. Imbul kiribath was the specialty of my grandmother.
Usually the traditional form of kiribath takes diamond shape. Imbul
kiribath is a rugger ball shaped lump with a filling in the center. If the traditional
one is delicious, imbul kiribath is heavenly delicious. My taste buds
tingle when I remember the taste of my grandmother’s imbul kiribath. My mother
inherited some of my grandmother’s skills but she could not emulate her. Then I
can only dream of matching either of their culinary skills.
My grandparents were living in a
village about 3km from ours. I still remember my grandfather bringing some
sweets or few pieces of imbul kiribath for me and my brothers. He used
to come in his bullock drawn cart (thirikkale). When the steel rimmed
wheels of the cart and bull’s shoe plates hit the tar macadamized road it
creates a rhythmic musical sound. We knew that grandfather was coming to our
house carrying something for us when we hear that music. Most often it was a
sweetmeat that our grandmother has prepared for us but on special occasions it
was definitely milkrice.
The closest to the milkrice that
I have tasted in another country is “Nasi Lemak”. It is normally long
grained white rice cooked in light coconut milk. It is very fragrant. The
fragrance is a concoction of smells coming from sweet coconut milk, pandan
leaves (rampe) and ginger used in cooking rice. Nasi Lemak is usually served
with shrimp paste sambal, deep fried anchovies, hard-boiled egg, roasted peanuts
and few slices of cucumber. I always look for nasi lemak in the breakfast
buffet if I happen to stay in a hotel in Indonesia, Malaysia or Singapore. Who
need toast or cereal or noodle soup if nasi lemak is served.
The similarity of kiribath
and nasi lemak does not limit only to the coconut flavor in rice. While nasi
lemak is served as a heap, milk rice is served as a cake or a lump. Like
shrimp paste sambal for nasi lemak, milk rice is coupled with katta sambal
(a grinded paste of dried chili, salt, lime juice and maldive fish) or lunu miris
(a grinded paste of shallots, dried chili, salt, lime juice and maldive fish). A
piece of palm sugar (hakuru) may be added as an accompaniment to balance
hot and acidic taste of the sambal with a sweet taste.
Rice cakes are found in some
other food cultures as well. For example, rice cakes and rice balls are
omnipresent in Japanese, Korean and Chinese cuisine. They are made of
short-grained and sticky Japanica type rice or rice flour. There is always a sweet
or savory filling in the center. I am quite fond of triangular shaped Japanese rice
cakes filled with shredded meat and wrapped in sea weed (kaiso). They
are perfect for snacking. In Thailand and Lao glutinous rice is used to make many
different types of rice cakes and balls. My favorite rice cake in Thailand is sticky
rice wrapped in banana leaf and grilled on charcoal fire (called khao niew ping). It has shredded meat, taro or banana as
filling.
Imbul kiribath is not like
any of the rice balls or cakes found in other food cultures. It is much larger
in size and shape. Unlike Japanese or Thai rice balls or cakes that can be
eaten at any time, imbul kiribath is normally eaten at the breakfast. It is
also eaten as a warm food but for me the best taste come when it is eaten late
in the morning after several hours from making.
My grandmother used a dried plate
part of an arecanut leaf (kolapatha) to get the perfect shape of imbul
kiribath. She put some steaming kiribath
on an arecanut leaf plate and flattens it using the back of a coconut shell spoon
to form an oval shape. Then she put some fried onion, chili and tamarind paste
mixture on the center of the circle. After that she roles the plate so as to
enclose the onion mixture with kiribath. Finally she holds the two ends
of the role and twist her hands, one clockwise and the other counter clock wise,
as if wrapping a candy using a piece of cellophane. Once the arecanut plate is opened
one can see the rugger ball shaped imbul kiribath.
In a foreign country it is very difficult
find such plates to make imbul kiribath. Therefore, we used banana leaf
to take the shape. Ours did not look so authentic. They ended up looking like flattened comforter pillows than rugger balls but they still could cheer-up
the mood of our special occasion.
Making Imbul Kiribath in a
foreign kitchen
First prepare the filling and let
it cool down.
Ingredients for filling
25Og big red onion
3 green chilies
A sprig of curry leaves
1 tbsp red chili flakes
2 tbsp tamarind pulp (take out
seeds and seed cover)
3 small pieces of pandan leaves
(optional)
Salt to taste
3 tbsp coconut oil ( or
substitute)
Slice onion length wise. Thinly
cut green chilies. Fry onion, green chili, curry leaves and pandan leaves until
onion is half brown. Add red chili flakes and mix well. Add tamarind pulp and
salt and fry for few more minutes. Take off from heat and let it cool.
Then make milk rice.
Ingradiants for milk rice
500g medium grain raw white rice or
red rice (We used Thai jasmine rice when in Thailand)
2 cups of coconut milk (We
diluted Thai coconut cream to make thick coconut milk)
Salt to taste
Cook rice as usual in a pot with
adequate amount of water. Do not use the electric rice cooker. When the rice is
just cooked add the coconut milk and salt and cook further until rice getting stickier
and coconut milk is cooked. Stop the cooking process.
Keep a banana leaf on a flat
surface and coat a thin layer of coconut milk to make it slightly wet. Even
water will do. Then take one big spoonful of milk rice and flatten it on the
banana leaf. Take a table spoon full of fired onion mixture and spread on the center
of the flattened milk rice. Then roll the banana leaf to form an elongated ball
of milk rice. Make sure that the onion filling is completely covered by milk
rice. You can use another piece of banana leaf to get the shape if rolling is
difficult. Once shaped like a rugger ball, it is called imbul kiribath. Leave
the rice ball to cool down. Repeat the balling process until all milk rice and
onion mixture is over. It is best to serve when the rice balls have lost most
of its heat. A piece of palm sugar can be served as an accompaniment.
Oh, my. I did not know that you had such deep knowledge on food. I still remember the special Sri Lankan rice that I ate at your house. I looked for that when I went to Sri Lanka, but could not find..... Can you write about that rice as well?
ReplyDeleteIn Japan, we eat Ozoni (rice cake in soup) on New Year Day. Our family's is my grandmother's version, who is from the south of Japan. I thought all Ozoni is the same, till later on in life, I have discovered that there is a very wide variation in this, depending on where one is from in Japan.
Thanks Kyoko for the nice comment. My intention is to learn about each others culture, food, architecture etc. I can't remember the rice dish that you mentioned. Is it a short grain white rice?
DeleteI think it was long grain. Not sticky, but it was very fragrant and sweet. You told me that those rice are steamed, and then, dried, and then cooked again.
DeletePerhaps I gave you par boiled rice.
DeleteCan you write about par boiled rice as well?
ReplyDeleteYes, I have a story. I will write one day. Thanks for your interest.
DeleteHello Ranjith. I was reading about a Sri Lankan tradition of feeding rice balls to crows. Would that follow the same recipe for cooking the rice? If not, do you know how it would be done? A Sri Lankan poet I know wrote a poem about it, that is how I found out. Many thanks in advance,
ReplyDeleteCristina
Hmm is anyone else having problems with the images on this blog
ReplyDeleteloading? I'm trying to figure out if its a problem on my end
or if it's the blog. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.